Mossel Bay: Garden Route gateway
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Jun 11, 2009: Mossel Bay: Garden Route gateway

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» Jun 11, 2009:

The tourist officials insist on calling the place “the heart of the garden route”, but with all the attractions of that route still further along the N2, I like to think of the place as more of a gateway.

Knysna is an easy 90kms away and Plettenberg Bay is barely an hour and a half's drive.

But don't be fooled into thinking that Mossel Bay is simply a highway oasis en route to Knysna, 4 hours' drive from Cape Town.

See the beauty that is Mossel Bay

With plenty on offer, especially at the height of summer, Mossel Bay has earned its stripes as a destination in its own right. There really is something for everyone here. You can spend as much, or as little, as you like and you're still guaranteed a damn fine time.

It's also a pretty historic place, Mossel Bay; home to the famous “Post Office Tree”, which was first used by the sailors of old over 500 years ago.

The sprawling Milkwood was where captains would leave messages for ships that would follow and, quaintly enough, you can still leave letters there for posting home.

It's also where Bartholomeu Dias came ashore in 1488 while on his epic journey around the southern tip of Africa.

The local museum boasts a full-scale replica of his “Caravel”, renamed in his honour, “Bartolomeu Dias”.

Hard to believe that this actual ship sailed from Portugal to Mossel Bay in 1988 to mark the 500th anniversary of Dias' historic trek. The museum is well worth a toby around, by the way. The entry fee is just R6 for adults, although you will need to cough up an additional R10 if you want to walk onto the ship itself.

Museums, of course, are a great way to spend a rainy day while on holiday, but mercifully those are few and far between in Mossel Bay. Primarily, this is a beach destination and it certainly doesn't disappoint.

While the beach stretches uninterrupted for kilometres, the jewel in Mossel Bay's crown has got to be Diaz Beach.

The resort is home to over a dozen apartment blocks and a 4-star hotel that line a 1500-metre stretch of pristine beachfront. The sight of bronzed bodies and countless beach umbrellas reminded me of Clifton's 4th beach, although the water won't take your breath away.

It's plenty warm enough to swim in and it's safe too, with lifeguards always on duty.

There are jet-skis to hire and sunset cruises to book. Set back from the beach is a fun fair, complete with a high-rise water slide.

Restaurants and cocktail bars complete the picture. Diaz Beach really is a one-stop-shop for your average holidaymaker and you don't even have to be staying there to enjoy all the benefits.

Entrance to the resort is free.

Further down the beach is the one questionable aspect of Mossel Bay's tourism offering. Largely owned by the Afrikaans Taal en Kultuur Vereeniging, the ATKV, Hartenbos is a nice enough plekkie to visit with the kids, but the place, and its mindset, are stuck in the 70s.

Don't get me wrong, Hartenbos is great for the little ones, with jumping castles, putt-putt, trampolines and ice creams, but there's a severe scarcity of good restaurants and watering-holes.

The only establishment that takes advantage of the fabulous view across the bay is the Spur. There's also a night-market, but some of the stuff on offer frankly made me uncomfortable.

Let's just say that now I know where those morons who wave the old flag at rugby matches get them from.

But don't let Hartenbos and its right-wing flavour put you off Mossel Bay.

It really is a great little destination and is largely free of the pretension you find in many of South Africa's other coastal cities.
   

There's a host of accommodation up for grabs, from 5-star guesthouses and B&Bs, to casino hotels and even budget cabins in an old train by the sea.

The town itself, while commercially under threat from the relatively new and sterile Langeberg Mall, is full of good restaurants and bars. It's safe streets invite you to stroll past beautiful Victorian sandstone buildings, while it's harbour offers cruises around the other main attraction, Seal Island.

The “Romonza” sail-ship is Mossel Bay's most well-known operator and leaves port-side every hour for the island. At this time of the year expect to pay R100 each for the pleasure, but if you're lucky, apart from 3 000 seals, you might also spot hammerhead sharks beneath the ship's hull. The Romonza also offers sunset cruises in summer. Those are R150 a head, but you do get to BYOB.

If the sea's not your thing, then you can hop aboard the Outeniqua Choo Tjoe. The steam train is up and running again, albeit between George and Mossel Bay. The schedule can be erratic, so best to call ahead and ask. They do recommend booking at least 24 hours in advance anyway. Mossel Bay Tourism handles those calls on 044 691 2202.

Mossel Bay ain't Durban or Plettenberg Bay, but it's pretty down to earth and calls a bucket and spade a bucket and spade.

And barely 4 hours from Cape Town, it's a breeze to get to. It's on the doorstep of one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the country and packs a mean punch as a beach holiday destination.

Source: News24.com - www.news24.com



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