The great Tsitsikamma trek
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Jul 02, 2009: The great Tsitsikamma trek
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» Jul 02, 2009:

If hiking trails were movie actors, the 6-day, 60-kilometer Tsitsikamma trail from Nature’s Valley Rest Camp to Storm’s River Bridge might be compared to Luke Wilson, making the Otter trail his younger brother, Owen Wilson. Like Owen the Otter trail is the younger but better known one and like Luke, the Tsitsikamma is the more sophisticated, understated “older brother” being SA’s first accredited hiking trail.

But as critics might say of Luke Wilson, so outdoor enthusiasts will tell you of the Tsitsikamma trail…don’t discount it! It’s a gem. The route lies in the same region as the Otter (Tsitskamma National Park along the Garden Route), is as tough (some say tougher, unless you do the slack packing version) and as beautiful, it’s just inland not coastal. It also compliments the Otter rather well, as both trails can be walked back to back.

If you’re really into hiking, you can first tramp the Tsitsikamma trail, which is unidirectional, to Storms River and you then commence with the Otter Trail (which follows the coastline back in the opposite direction).

Twelve incredible days later, you’ll be back at your car at the De Vasselot camp site in Nature’s Valley, feeling like (an exhausted) master of the universe.

(The Tsitsikamma also has two to five-day versions to choose from so if you’re pressed for time you can arrange to start further along the route or to come off earlier.)

Tsitsikamma - living up to its name. (Kayang Gagiano)Apart from the incredible diversity of the route, which boasts everything from a first night spent near the sea, to fantastic fynbos-covered slopes to kloofs filled with indigenous afro-montane forest to majestic mountain views (including the awesome Peak Formosa) one of the best things about it is the ample swimming opportunities.

Every day you pass ancient gorges with pristine rock pools and rivers burbling merrily over rocks.

The world “Tsitsikamma” is actually Khoi for “place of much water” which is very appropriate. And unlike the Ancient Mariner’s lament of “water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink!” this stuff tastes awesome. Fill your drinking bottle and enjoy. Lazing next to pools or streams while munching on trail mix or cooling off in the chilly mountain water really enhances one’s enjoyment of the trek, no matter what time of year. Take the plunge and swim -it will leave you tingly, fresh and energised for the next leg of your walk.

All the huts have bunk beds with covered foam hikers’ mattresses, really lovely sheltered braai lapas, ample firewood, cast iron pots, a pan, kettles and braai grids as cooking apparatus as well as cold showers and flush loos. If you warm up some water in a kettle you can even have a lukewarm shower. On my second night at Blaauwkrans Hut, I felt like Heidi sleeping in that cottage in the Alps and on night three, like Fiela se kind, surrounded by forest.

Blaauwkrans hut makes you feel like Heidi. (Kayang Gagiano)Look out for: Baboons, vervet monkeys, large-spotted genets, bushpigs and bushbuck. Leopards, caracals, honey badgers and blue duikers occur, but aren’t often seen. Bird species include rameron pigeon, narina trogon, sombre bulbul, forest buzzard, sunbirds, loeries, kingfishers and flycatchers.

In the fynbos areas keep a look out for Victorin's warbler, protea canary and Cape siskin.

Outeniqua and Real Yellow woods, Milk woods, Cape Ash and Plane trees, Old Man’s Beard, lichens, lianas, ferns galore and many other plant species abound.

I won’t lie to you. I am no bona fide true-blood hiker. I resent that heavy pack cutting into my shoulders day after day and how food gets squashed by all the clothes, toiletries and other paraphernalia you carry with you. Handy hint for hikers: no bananas in your pack! The option to arrange porterage on the Tsitsikamma trail thus came as welcome news.

You only have to carry things like cameras, cozzies, cold weather/rain gear, and snacks!

Currently, until the access road to the first night’s Kalander Hut is repaired, all your extras can be transported by bakkie between huts, as of day three. When the roads fixed the whole route has porterage. The cost for this heaven-sent luxury is a minimum levy of R480 per night per 1-6 people. So well worth it for those who enjoy the walking part but the not so much the aching neck and shoulders.

This trail is on the tougher side, with some steep ascents and descents that are quite punishing on the knees but anyone who’s moderately fit will be fine and the experience is totally worth it. Like a good Luke Wilson comedy, the Tsitsikamma will leave you well satisfied. It’s a winner and perfect outing for the secret season, as it rains most here in spring!

Source: News24.com - www.news24.com



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