Just mention the words Chapman's Peak to Capetonians and you are likely to get a frosty response.

The world-famous Chapman's Peak Drive, arguably the most scenic route in the country and one of the best-loved excursions for visitors and locals alike, has been closed for over a year. Locals are incensed that not only do they to have to pay tolls to use the road, but despite the tolls, it has been shut for longer than ever before.

This has badly affected trade for businesses in Hout Bay and Noordhoek as well as inconvenienced tour operators and locals who simply wish to enjoy the beauty of the peninsula.

However, Chapman's Peak doesn't refer only to the drive but to the mountain above it, and the peak still offers spectacular views of Hout Bay and the back table of Table Mountain, without an overly onerous trek to reach it.

As I set off before dawn on a wonderfully warm and still winter's day, I wasn't even sure I could get to the start point of the trail, some three quarters of the way up the drive from the Noordhoek side.

Signs along the way warned the pass was closed, but near the beach there was evidence that day passes could be obtained to drive to the lookout point and therefore would provide access to the car park where the path starts.

Despite the early hour, with the sun yet to peek over Table Mountain, the pass behind me was alive with runners taking advantage of the lack of traffic along the steep and serpentine roadway. If running is easier with a view to take your mind off things, then this must rate as the easiest jog in the world, I suppose. It would no doubt still be a bit much for me, although I have cycled over it more times than I care to remember.

In the distance, behind Llandudno, Little Devil's Peak was surrounded by pink sky as the first rays of dawn reached over the mountains. The bay itself was calm with only the foam-laced waves providing some variety.

To me, this drive shows some of the best and worst of Cape Town at the same time. Some of the world's most spectacular views are cheek by jowl with ugly containers made to serve as offices and signage warning one not to leave valuables in the car - or indeed even leave the car unattended. It's a bit tricky to enjoy a hike up the mountain without leaving the car behind. Perhaps the authorities feel we should all employ our own car guards to take with us.

So it was with mixed emotions that I set off up the trail along the gurgling riverbed towards the path that leads to the top. As with most such trails, the start is something of a wake-up call, with steep log and stone steps but, in reality, the going isn't that tough and before long you reach a plateau which gives your heart time to slow down a little.

The path is in very good condition, making for easy going and moderate speed - so much so that even with photo stops along the way I managed the summit in about an hour, about 30 minutes less than the recommended time.

On the saddle near the top there were more Cape sugar birds than I have ever seen in one place before, their ribbon-like tails trailing behind them as they flew with their characteristic "frrt frrt"sound, apparently a deliberate ploy aimed at attracting a mate. They then stopped on the protea bushes here and there to fill the morning air with song.

With the sun now up, the bay was striped with the wakes of fishing boats heading for the lobster grounds or further out to set long lines.

Tourist charters wove intricate white ribbons on the calm surface as they ferried visitors around seal island.

Despite the sunshine, there was still a nip in the air, but with virtually no breeze to increase the chill factor it wasn't a problem unless one loitered too long in one spot.

At the summit I could see all the way around the peninsula and, by turning in a slow circle, I variously looked down on Noordhoek beach and the wreck of the Kakapo, Slangkop lighthouse, the Sentinel and even Muizenberg off to the south west.

Some light and low cloud on the peak waxed and waned around me so that sometimes the view disappeared entirely, only to show through again moments later as the slight breeze carried the moisture-laden air away.

It was tremendously peaceful and I found it hard to drag myself away. I have actually never walked to this peak before and it turned out to be a real gem of a stroll - not too far or too strenuous - and could be enjoyed by most moderately fit people with a few hours to spare.

In fact, on the descent, I came across a family with small children, one on nearly every adult's back, heading upwards and determined to enjoy the wonderful nature and splendid scenery the Cape has to offer.

Perhaps the only real sadness of the trip was the knowledge that the view across the bay could change in time. Apparently the Sentinel, that massive guardian and iconic landmark of Hout Bay, is up for auction and may well have a new owner by the time you read this.

Source: News24.com - www.news24.com

Browse Travelfinda.com News By Category