Cape Town and its landmarks have always loomed large in the mythology of our family. My mother, who was born in Cape Town, could, like most of the Fitzpatrick clan - and most of the Irish, come to think of it - spin a yarn. It was only when I was about eight or nine and we were on one of our periodic visits to family in Cape Town that I discovered that there were no farms in Adderley Street. I had often been promised by my mother that "Don't worry, I'll buy you a farm in Adderley Street..."

I was prepared for that let-down, having realised, not long before, that my mother was not, in fact, 21 - as she had claimed to be.

Another favourite phrase she would employ when children looked as though they wanted to move above their appointed station - for instance, when asking for something exotic for supper - was: "What do you think this is, the Mount Nelson?"

For my mother and her generation, the Mount Nelson Hotel, the pink-washed colossus near the foot of Table Mountain, was the epitome of style, luxury and quality.

Ironically, the Mount Nelson remained something mythic. None of us on our side of the family had, until now, set foot in the Mount Nelson (we would never, ever label it "The Nellie"). So, it's a pity, then, that my mother - who died last year - wasn't around to quiz me about the Mount Nelson.

The epitome of style, luxury and quality

I would have told her that, despite the increasing competition from boutique and luxury hotels in Cape Town, South Africa and around the world, the Mount Nelson still more than holds its own.

Over the years, it's been the place of choice for princesses, politicians and rock stars sojourning in Cape Town - and it's still immensely popular with overseas visitors, as well as South Africans wanting a memorable wedding or a great venue for a business conference.

As I settled into my room, with its floor-to-almost-ceiling windows revealing the elegant fastness of Table Mountain, I could almost inhale the history around me.

The furniture - with the exception of the massive, supremely comfortable bed - was all muted, dark wood and age. The lounge chairs were over-stuffed and upholstered in the sort of patterned fabric you might well find in an ante room at Buckingham Palace.

Set in nine acres of lush gardens, the 107-year-old hotel is the oldest in Cape Town and a sister (or should that be brother?) to the equally classy Westcliff Hotel in Johannesburg.

There are 201 rooms that range from the merely luxurious to the mind-blowing. The public areas are also redolent of a bygone era, with elegantly attired and attentive staff moving quickly and quietly amid the aura of the 1930s.

The service, in fact, is one of the highlights of the Mount Nelson experience and proves that the new, younger generation is quite capable of continuing the tradition of excellence which the Mount Nelson has established in that area.

I could almost inhale the history around me.

Many of the hotel's guests were foreigners and judging from their interactions with the staff in the Oasis Restaurant, which is also the breakfast venue, I would guess the Mount Nelson's people do a good deal more for the image of South Africa than many of our foreign ambassadors.

The Mount Nelson Hotel is about luxury accommodation, but also about food and fine dining. There are two restaurants and six banqueting venues offering a wide range of service and cuisines.

The hotel's signature eatery is the Cape Colony Restaurant, which last year won a Diners Club Wine List of the Year Award of Excellence.

Executive chef Ian Mancais has the sort of cosmopolitan background essential for a place like the Mount Nelson. Born in Cyprus to a French father and Scottish mother, he was raised in South East Asia - and all of these influences can be seen in his cooking.

Mancais has been called in by the top resorts and hotels worldwide to launch their restaurants and menus. Among his pet projects has been setting up the world's first true undersea restaurant at the Rangali Hilton in the Maldives (nominated as the best resort hotel in the world); cooking for the ruling Sheik Mohamed of Dubai; and organising the Desert Classic Royal Air Show Gala in the same country, where he catered a gourmet meal for no less than 2 700 people.

In the Cape Colony Restaurant, Mancais is offering patrons something that is a little different, subtle Asian and South East Asian food. Divided into a "Contemporary" section of "Asian Fusion" dishes and a "Classical" section with the more traditional meals, the selection includes starter dishes such as the tomato and basil risotto in clear tomato water with Chinese-style fried dim sum (R75), while the main course I sampled, the Vietnamese black-lacquered roasted lamb rack served with Chinese-style fried bok choy (R165), was unusual and piquant.

From the Classical menu, you can opt for the foie gras ballentine served with apple, pear chutney and home-fired brioche (R130) as a starter choice, and for mains the lamb's kidney bercy with shallots and white wine (R140).

Vegetarians are well looked after, with two options on the menu. Choose from either the open lasagne of honey-roasted vegetables with lime foam and pesto (R130) or the mushroom risotto with picked rocket (R135).

Ultimately, it's the ambience of the place that really sets it apart. The Cape Colony, like the rest of the Mount Nelson, is an experience…

Source: News24.com - www.news24.com

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